Setting Up a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup needs mindful preparation and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will require to do three types of jobs: framing walls, installing the pipes, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must select the kind of shower that you want to set up. It is very important to ascertain whether the chosen shower is capable of dealing with specific quick plumbing tips systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. The majority of shower units nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as stored warm water and cold mains).
It is also crucial to take into consideration the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and very basic to set up. However, although the tube connection is easy, it is quickly dislodged. Additionally, it is troublesome to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive choice and no extra plumbing is included. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience troublesome temperature level control options.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly discussed mixers. They likewise need additional pipes of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature control. However, it is the most pricey of the different mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of an effective electrical pump that can modifying both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps elsewhere in use within the family. A major disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob just permits the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this problem is tackled in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you wish to set up, the shower head should either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Before starting, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drain system to eliminate the drainage will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also require to be thought about if a rapid or electrical shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is essential to cut off the water system. In order to protect the pipelines, they need to be given a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipes for any leakages, as some might require tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (often as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support below it-- possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you pick this choice, the main and distribution pipelines will likewise need to be raised to fulfill the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it must be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding preserve optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising making use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or disregarding local code restrictions.
# Using pipes that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not setting up an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not properly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outside pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.