Installing a brand-new shower system

Installing a New Shower Unit

An effective shower setup requires mindful preparation and a lot of work. In many cases, you will need to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and ending up walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you should select the kind of shower that you wish to set up. It is important to establish whether the picked shower is capable of dealing with specific systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower systems nowadays are developed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).

It is also essential to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature level can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and very simple to install. However, although the tube connection is basic, it is quickly removed. Furthermore, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost option and no additional plumbing is included. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from troublesome temperature level control options.

Manual Mixer: The pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the previously mentioned mixers. They likewise require extra plumbing of cold and hot water supply pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the most significant advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most costly of the different mixer choices.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including a powerful electric pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

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Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is very important to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit permits the temperature and pressure to be changed by means of a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere in usage within the home. A significant drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob just enables the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is colder. Nevertheless, this issue is taken on in some models which are offered with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head need to either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.

Before beginning, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. In addition, the drain system to get rid of the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also require to be thought about if a rapid or electrical shower unit is being installed.

Use the guideline guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the supply of water. In order to secure the pipes, they need to be given a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there should be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Fit Your Shower

The cold water tank can be lifted to a higher height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support beneath it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this choice, the primary and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it should be linked into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding maintain optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising making use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can accomplish this by flexing the pipelines instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or neglecting regional code restrictions.

# Using pipelines that are too small.

# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.

# Not utilizing tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your components when setting up them.

# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.

# Not effectively aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger problems in your sink faucets and Great site other pipes trim.